So can the best get better. Early reports are positive. Probably at the next big race we will have a clear picture. The design is quite aggresive, with a long pointy front end and a curved rear where the wing follows the curved line to increase downforce. Very impressive work.
MonTech's response to the ZooRacing bodies is their Version 2 of the Racer.
With a more aggressive front end, lower stance than the previous model and bit more pronounced lines to keep a rigid form under load they aim in improving performance and matching the DBX body.
At the recent ETS Madrid race, it did not seem to be the preferred choice and team drivers reverted in the end to the ZooRacing body, although this may be contributed to other reasons, one of them being the fact that Xray team seemed to be lost with set up in the extreme cold conditons of that particular event. When such issues occur it is common to try and maintain one performance factor unchanged in order to have a consistent reference point. Thus I presume was the reason for choosing DBX for that race.
The future will show whether this body is a top performer or not.
Quality wise, it seems to be a well-designed product, with nice clear and rigid lexan. A lot of attention to detail has gone in the front end to channel air so that it increases downforce. The DBX seems to be a bit nicer in fit and finish as the Racer2 required to be positioned a bit higher than I would have liked in order to meet the 115mm height rule.
Aesthetically I prefer it as the cabin is not as forward as the DBX and it has nicer proportions in my subjective view.
Anyway, here are some photos of the body:
Newcomer in the 1/10
TC body industry, ZooRacing stormed the scene lately with their creations proving
to be the ‘body’ to have as results and pro driver preference immediately showed
Preopard and DBX are some of the best performing bodies.
The main design characteristics are the low center of gravity and overall stance
of the body, and the front cab position of the cabin.
My input is pretty much non important as the performance of the body is the
best indicator of its qualities, but I can say that the quality of the lexan is
very good, and the design is very accurate, fitting perfectly to a modern TC
It is also quite robust as I already managed to crash test it at high speed
(ETS Madrid) and no damage was sustained to the body.
After the failed attempt to drive with the popular pistol radio I decided to upgrade my stick radio equipment after 12 years running KO Propo Esprit III. The radio of choice is what I believe to be the ultimate stick radio currently on the market. Not the most popular, probably due to its very high price, but certainly the most well equipped and best looking. I got a great deal from TAGMODELS and now it is in my hands. I will probably spend more time playing with the endless options than actually race but this is what I enjoy mostly of this hobby, the technical aspect. So here are some photos of the radio and how it arrives in the package. For High Definition photos click on this link:FUTABA 7XC Gallery
Nice combo of top of the line transmiter in a more attractive price than the standard radio. I was lucky enough to get a great deal fromEURORC.COMand received it within a few days. Feel is very nice and considering this is my first pistol radio after switching from a stick radio, I trust it is the best choice considering it is a well proven product all around the world for this application.
2. MKS X6 HBL 575 SL
This I was quite reluctant to get. Being a bit old school I was more keen to go for the more tranditional makers such as KO Propo, Futaba or at least same make as the new radio, SANWA. In the end I was open to listen to the comments of a few friends and went for it. Once I got it in my hands I was impressed by the quality, the finish of the case and the smooth operation. Speed is great as expected so only track time is pending to make final conclusions
Here is my car with all the new equipment installed. It looks nice and fresh compared to what it looked like before.
After running the car with the speedo installed in front of the motor I decided to re-wire the electronics with the speedo installed behind the motor this time. This is also the actual designated location of the speedo from the designer of the car. Following his advice the battery connectors are now switched to the back to maintain the shortest possible lenth on the wires.
Actually it is not mid motor. The motor is moved forward by some margin but still is located rearward. The point of interest here is the mid-spur location and the equal length belts front / rear. In theory this layout should provide a better and smoother power delivery than the unequal length belts of the current traditional layout. FULL HD GALLERY
In practice, it seems to deliver as it showed great pace in the hands of Freddy Sudhoff at the recent IFMAR World Championships in South Africa. AWESOMATIX was the highest placed team without a professional driver and the margin of speed from the top performing cars was very small, if any. In fact on his Q2 run Freddy was on course for top qualifying until he had contact with a board on the very last lap. I have not tried it yet but I cannot doubt much the designer's Oleg Babich ideas as so far most of the upgrades he introduces seem to produce better pace.
This new design calls for a re-arrangement of the electronics layout. So far the most common and the proposed installation is to place the speedo behind the motor, and keep the receiver and cooling fan in front of the motor. This keeps the balance of the chassis at the desired point and also cooling of the motor is aided since the airflow of the fan follows the airflow of the car running.
Here is the suggested motor / speedo installation:
Me being me.. I tried the other way around. Why? well I did not enjoy seeing the speedo so far back. Since I had long leads from the servo and speedo I could place the receiver way back and with some carbon spare pieces I made a fixing point for the antenna. I did not place any weights up front and added 20gr of weight at the back which seems to have worked in achieving the desired center of gravity being a few mm behind the spur. I cannot say how much mm as this is top secret info and if I tell you I will then have to make you disappear!